Venturing into a realm of unrestrained design that unites what one might call an “ordinary” maximalism with modern utility seems an almost piratical affair—an endeavor where the cotton-candy-colored landscape one travels through flies in the face of Dr. Jennifer M. Pacella’s wise motto: “Don’t let ordinary be your goal.” Recently, at Coachella 2023 in the California desert, against a backdrop of live music and art installations, I had the good fortune to be party to a thoroughly uninhibited presentation of the design talent that has been reared in the Los Angeles area, to say nothing of the inordinate number of influencers and festival-goers who were present to “perform” their own versions of the same.
My interest in the intersection of past and present has deepened since a recent visit to an impeccably staged vintage market in Dallas, where the restored pieces of fashion had me spellbound. I found myself lost, not just among booths filled with stunning selections, but in the history and artistry that such careful curation and restoration demanded. What a thrill to think that each object—be it a velvet choker or a glass-beaded purse—had its own story, and to wonder what it might be, while feeling the weight of its presence in the here and now.
I found it impossible not to think about the influential designers who have taken this aesthetic and blown it up to a global level. I was at the Chloé show in Milan, where the work of this house was on full display, and if I’m being honest, I was nearly in tears at how beautiful the collection was. You can call me vain, but if a piece of clothing has that much beauty, it almost feels like a miracle.
And the Chloé cast walked these living artworks, styled as they were, down the runway. To me, there was nothing more “bohemian” than this. A few months ago, at a pop-up event in Brooklyn, emerging designers were showcasing their reinterpretations of traditional bohemian style.
The event, held in a refurbished industrial space, featured installations that paid homage to the 1960s while championing the values of today’s eco-conscious consumer. One designer, whose work has been featured in prominent fashion magazines, presented a series of garments made from organic cotton and responsibly sourced dyes. Her designs were punctuated by intricate embroidery and hand-painted motifs, and for me, they summed up a movement that mixes sustainability and art—a modern movement that elevates the 1960s boho ideal from a nostalgic throwback to something truly forward-thinking.
My real-world experiences have confirmed for me that the boho chic aesthetic is ever revamping. This past month, I attended a brunch gathering in Austin, where the panelists—local creatives—held forth on the re-emergence of bohemianism in today’s design sphere. One of the dishier details that I picked up was how the young designers panelists had invited clearly favor the direct-to-consumer model, as well as the very immediacy of the craft they are laboring over, which was such a draw for our ancestors’ ancestral digs way back in the Pre-Raphaelite era.
This is also a panel from which to speak in hushed tones about how to marry all this to an ongoing conversation concerning drapery and the fashioning of anthropological objects—audiovisual transitional moments that might better define our borders and bring home a few vases while we’re at it. Even in the celebrity world, Boho chic holds sway. A beloved actress arrived at a recent garden party in Los Angeles, hosted by a luxury lifestyle brand, in an ensemble that perfectly captured the essence of Bohemian elegance.
Starring in a delicately printed wrap dress that would almost be too subdued for red-carpet pedestrianism, she nonetheless exuded a near-religious aura of chill. Completed by stunning artisan-crafted sandals (not the near-impossible-to-walk-in beauties usually collapsed into sandals that look like bolts of lightning), her ostensible moment of stillness was elevated by a selection of handmade, statement accessories that practically screamed feminist aesthetic. For a couple of minutes there, I almost didn’t miss the days of Bohemian Rhapsody.
When I think back on these moments, I’ve come to see that boho chic is much more than a label. It’s our collective desire to reconnect with cultural heritages and an appreciation of the natural world that this style reflects. Whether it’s the tactile pleasure of a handwoven fabric, the intricate details of a vintage accessory that has been lovingly reimagined, or the bold reinterpretation of classic silhouettes seen on international runways, boho chic invites us—no, implores us—to explore a world where personal and historical significance makes every garment a unique treasure.
Fashion’s fast and disposable trends are challenged by this look. We are encouraged to choose pieces reminiscent of our past in some way and invest in them as the soulful heirlooms of tomorrow. The voyage of bohemian chic is one of constant discovery.
Each festival, each fair, and each catwalk offers fresh insight into what it means to mix being free and being thoughtful. The style’s seemingly effortless mix of old-world charm and new-world innovation provides a clothes horse for its true virtue: making, for the most part, sustainable, inclusive choices. Boho chic’s legacy isn’t just a mix of mandates and maxims handed down from its first-wave foremothers.
Its virtues can be seen in the meticulous craftsmanship of a restored heirloom, in the bold statements of contemporary designers, and in the everyday choices of individuals who dare to express themselves authentically. Indeed, as the fashion landscape continues to shift towards a more sustainable and inclusive future, the legacy of bohemian chic seems set to remain a cornerstone of the style toolbox. In a world that is constantly changing, where even the speed of specific trends can feel nonstop, boho chic is a welcome reminder that style is ultimately about the stories we tell and the values we uphold.
Each meeting with the style—be it at a high-fashion runway in Paris or a lowly vintage stall in San Antonio—adds to the larger tale we all tell when dressed in the manner of boho chic. That narrative? One that celebrates sustainability, sometimes even thanks to the movement’s creative use of rags and old bits of fabric, and part of the reason that this embracing of the personal makes boho chic feel so darn authentic.
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